When we were driving south near Barcelona a couple of weeks ago we saw in the distance an impressive and very jagged multi-peaked mountain range and wondered what it was. After doing some research we discovered it was the Montserrat mountain range, part of the Catalan pre-coastal range. We made a note to try and visit it on our way back and also found there was a famous monastery up in the mountains that might provide a destination for an overnight stop. After 3 interesting stops on previous nights it would take something special to top those and this one certainly did.
Montserrat monastery is a spectacular Benedictine monk mountain retreat with a community of about 80 monks. Its Montserrat dates back to 880 when a group of shepherd children saw a bright light descending from the sky in the mountains and heard angels singing, and images of the Virgin Mary later appeared in nearby caves. It is now an important place of pilgrimage and many tourists come here because of the 12th century statue of the Black Madonna, patron saint of Catalonia which can be viewed in all its glory above the high altar in the basilica of the monastery. Whilst you normally need to book, there were very few visitors so we could go straight in. The Montserrat Boys’ Choir consisting of about 50 choirboys from the boarding school of the monastery church sings songs daily in her honour. It is one of the oldest choirs in Europe, famous for its recitals and recordings.
In 1811, the monastery was largely destroyed by Napoleonic troops and was subsequently rebuilt. Some the buildings were used as a hospital during the Spanish Civil War. At the time of the Franco dictatorship the monastery put up resistance and many hundreds of persecutees of the Franco regime were hiding there. The Catalans are still grateful today.
The complex of monastery buildings are not architecturally special in any way, but the backdrop of the mountains against which they sit and the views all around are more inspiring. In addition to the traditional religious art in the basilica, the external areas include some more modern pieces which we appreciated.
As well as arriving by car, visitors also have the option to come by train from Barcelona to the village below and take another small train to the monastery or to take a cable car up. A funicular railway – not operating the day we were there – takes you even further to the top of the mountain for walking options. Joe, never being one to miss the opportunity of a boat, train or cable car ride, opted for the cable car, originally built in 1930 and restored after WW2. We were therefore able to experience the views from every angle during our visit.
Whilst there is a parking charge at the site, access to the basilica monastery, museum and other areas is all free and they are happy for motorhomes to stay in the parking area overnight with its breathtaking views over the landscape and vertiginous drops. So 20 euros for a visit and overnight stop for two people doesn’t seem like bad value. Like châteaux, Joe now feels he has done his quota of monasteries!
What amazing scenery – those mountains – awesome. The photographer deserves a pat on the back as well. As you say, you won’t forget that overnight stop in a hurry!
Thanks Jill. The scale of the vistas makes it hard to for photos to do any real justice. Hope you had a good time in Paris. C