Ancient History

Every day brings a huge variety of scenery as we drive to new destinations and we try not to get blasé about it and sharing the driving means we both get to enjoy the landscape we pass through. Every one of our overnight stops brings us a different experience as well. As we started to head east again we decided not to retrace our steps but to go more north-east via Mende and Aubenas and to break our journey at the beautiful and isolated Lac de Naussac, the largest lake (or reservoir) in the Lozère region and popular for water sports in the summer. The Motorhome parking area was right alongside the lake providing beautiful views from the van. As the weather and location was so lovely, we stayed for a couple of nights and explored the walking and cycling paths around the lake and up to the dam.

Lac de Nassau – sunset from the van
Dam at Lac de Nassau

Our next stop, although near water again, was a complete contrast as we were by the side of the Rhône at the city of Avignon, using a campsite overlooking the city as our base for a few days. And it couldn’t have been better located for exploring this beautiful walled city. Avignon has such a rich history having been the seat of the catholic Popes during the 14th century when seven Popes lived in Avignon in the various buildings that form the Popes’ palace in the historic centre.

Popes’ Palace Avignon

We couldn’t miss the chance to stand on the Pont d’Avignon, or at least what remains of it today. The Pont Saint Benezet, to give it its formal title, was built over several centuries and originally had 22 arches spanning the Rhône, but many of those were washed away over the years and only four remain today. Like so many bridges of the time, it was important for controlling economic traffic on the Rhône, collecting tolls from those travelling up and down the river or those unloading goods at Avignon. Contrary to the words of the popular childhood song, people didn’t actually dance on the bridge – it was too narrow for that – but underneath or in cafés alongside the river.

Remaining arches of Pont d’Avignon
Sur Le Pont d’Avignon

Inside the intact city walls, Avignon has a vibrant feel to it with elegant shops and restaurants as well as younger people from the local university and schools. It’s well set up with cycle paths so we were able to cycle around the outside walls of the entire old city as well as on the Isle de la Bartehlasse, the biggest river island in France, lying between Avignon and Villeneuve-Les-Avignon and the location of our campsite.

Avignon skyline early morning

We haven’t explored by train for a little while so, armed with our bicycles, we took the train from Avignon to Orange, a journey of just 20 minutes. The train we travelled on was well equipped for travelling with bicycles, with high level hooks and fixings to hold the bikes up on their back wheels against the wall – all new to us.

Orange itself is really quite a small town but punches way above its weight with the amazing Roman theatre, built in the 1st century AD and the best preserved Roman theatre in the world. Pretty much everything we visit has a UNESCO status or classification of some sort and this is no exception. The scale of its external walls towering 37 metres high over the adjacent town streets is overwhelming. Operas are still staged in the theatre and, although we weren’t able to go inside on the date we visited due to ‘fermeture exceptionelle’ which often means civil servants on strike, undeterred we found a pathway to the viewpoint on the hill behind the theatre and looked down on it. We were also able to view the ruins of the adjacent forum.

Orange Roman Theatre external walls
Looking down on the Roman Theatre

After meandering through the small streets of the town we headed to the outskirts to see the beautiful Arc de Triomphe d’Orange, built during the reign of the Emperor Augustus on the former Via Agrippa which linked Arles and Lyons and commemorating the Gallic Wars. The arch, another UNESCO World Heritage site, is covered in intricate detailed carvings, no doubt restored over the years. A great visit to this impressive town.

Arc de Triomphe d’Orange

2 thoughts on “Ancient History

  1. I clearly remember our visits to Avignon, which we loved, and Orange which is the centre of the perfume making industry. We had a great tour around one of the factories.

    1. Hi Mary hoping to to find out more about perfumes when we get closer to Grasse. Love to you both. Xx

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