So we have now been formally welcomed into (very) local society. A few hundred metres up the road at the brow of the hill is the Chateau de Lamothe d’Anthé, the chateau of the hamlet on whose very outer edges we live. The chateau, officially classed as a manoir, but a very grand one at that, dates back to the 13th century and has been extended and updated over the years. The entrance gate has crenellated towers that look a little out of keeping with the rest of the building. For the last 20 or so years the Chateau has been in the private ownership of a Dutch family and each year they invite the local inhabitants (peasants?!) to a gathering, usually held in the summer months but this year it was held at the end of November on a night when the first frost of the year was forecast.
Most of the locals in the hamlet are in fact the mayor and his family so they made up the majority of about 20 invited guests (French and anglophone) from the local houses and a few from a little further away. Pre-dinner aperitifs gave us the chance to have a look at a little of the interior of the chateau. Dinner was served in the original courtyard which has now been enclosed with a roof and doors, but the fact they had recently had delivered an 8-metre high Christmas tree, decorated with the aid of scaffolding, gives an indication of high the ceiling was. No wonder some of the locals kept their coats on! The courtyard walls and a private chapel, located just off the courtyard, were decorated with murals that were apparently painted by an Italian Jew who took refuge at the chateau during WWII and who was unfortunately killed during the war. One of the locals we spoke to is a 4th generation farmer (now retired) from the hamlet and he and his wife, also originally from the hamlet, told us of their memories of attending Midnight Mass in the small chapel at Christmas when they were children and of being given hot chocolate afterwards. It was a very enjoyable, if slightly nippy, evening in wonderful surroundings and we were formally welcomed into the neighbourhood by the lord and lady of the manor.
We met the only other neighbours we hadn’t spoken to previously in rather different circumstances a week later. We’ve already mentioned the paperwork and admin required to import and register ouri various vehicles in France and it seems that we’re being asked every day for another document or piece of evidence for our files. The Jeep, which is a historic vehicle in the UK and doesn’t need an MOT there, will need one for its first registration in France. Joe has been doing some adjustments and testing in preparation for the MOT. Returning from a local exercise class, I was a few hundred yards from the house when I came across Joe standing in the lane and the Jeep in the ditch. Apparently a few minutes previously, whilst testing the brakes, the Jeep veered violently to the left without warning and into the ditch. Joe was trapped on his side briefly but able to get out with no injury other than some bruising.
Relieved to see him OK we then had to deal with getting the Jeep retrieved from the ditch. It needed a tractor so we headed up the road to our neighbours at the plum farm. We’ve previously met the retired farmer, Jean-Louis, but we had the good fortune on this day to meet his daughter Sonia and her partner Charlotte, who now run the farm. On explaining our predicament, without any hesitation they immediately came down the road with their tractor and chains and with the minimum of fuss they pulled the Jeep out of the ditch and back up the road to the barn. How lucky we were that they were around – they really were the heroines that day. Fortunately the Jeep came to rest on soft earth, so any cosmetic damage is all easily fixable and will keep Joe busy over the winter.
The French love a demonstration or protest and we’ve noticed when we’ve been out and about that many village name signs at the entrances of villages have been turned upside down. Apparently the signs are being upended by young farmers, aggrieved by the number of EU laws and standards they are forced to comply with by the French government, as well as being upset that foreign imports do not have to comply with same the strict rules imposed on French farmers. There have been more disruptive demonstrations including blocking roads so turning signs upside down is probably a more humorous way of showing what they feel about the situation.
What a particularly brilliant diary entry! Joe seemed mud-free in the towed jeep. Have a great French Christmas.
Thanks Maggie and Joe was very lucky not to have suffered worse. Sorry for the late reply – WordPress notifications for comments seems to have turned off so only just picked yours up. Have a lovely Christmas x
Hi Claire and Joe,
You seem to be moving in exalted circles these days lol.
Hope the jeeps steering problem is not too bad and Joe can fix it easily.
Looking forward to seeing you in February.
Thanks Chris. It looks like the Jeep problems can all be repaired – it’s a tough old vehicle. Sorry for the late reply – WordPress notifications for comments seems to have turned off so only just picked yours up. Have a lovely Christmas and start to your trip and see you in February x
Thank goodness Joe came away virtually unscathed from his argument with a ditch. It must have shaken you both up somewhat. As to all your other adventures recounted in your various blogs, you never know what you can do until you try! Your upcycling effort was definitely a resounding success and I’m sure if you really get into it you’ll have no trouble in locating furniture and other similar things which are past their best and could benefit from some TLC. Looking at the photo of the trays of nuts, I certainly don’t envy the challenge you’ve set yourself to make a nut tart. I’ll be interested to hear how that one goes!
Your encounter with the local chateau owners sounds fascinating and it is wonderful how welcoming everyone is being. I suppose that’s the difference between living in a village and not a city as in the latter (in my experience anyway) anonymity definitely seems to be the primary goal.
Keep the blogs coming – they’re fascinating. I’ll certainly be interested in learning how Christmas is observed. If it’s served I recommend you do your best to avoid the “boudin blanc”. A much coveted delicacy but decidedly an acquired taste – a bit like the cow’s tongue which used to be served complete with skin which my brothers still recall with revulsion some 50 odd years on!
Personally, I’m off to Croatia for the duration hoping that, once again, foreign parts are sufficient to keep my mind away from less happy memories. I’ll definitely need my winter woollies and long johns I think but the scheduled excursions sound interesting. They include a performance of the Nutcracker which I will probably enjoy.
Anyway, I don’t do Christmas cards so this is my means of wishing you both a very enjoyable Christmas and an exciting, happy and healthy 2024.
Jill xx
Sorry for the late reply Jill. WordPress notifications for comments seems to have turned off so only just picked yours up. We are very fortunate to have been welcomed so warmly. We were only saying to some friends this week that, given many of our neighbours have never travelled beyond the village, we must seem like creatures from outer space! We were told the story of a girl from a village about 6kms away who married a man in our hamlet and who, after the wedding, never saw her family again because of the ‘great distance’. She might as well have emigrated!
I experienced boudin blanc in Paris many years ago and it’s actually something I don’t mind too much – perhaps the skin is thinner now – although I haven’t been able to persuade Joe. Have a great time in Croatia. X