A New Adventure in France

The abbey and cloisters are the highlight of Moissac but there is a lot more to see in this town. Fruit growing is the main industry in the area and we are surrounded by apple orchards, irrigated by the water from the river. Another main crop is the Chasselas de Moissac grape, a translucent golden eating grape which also has the distinction of being the first fresh fruit to obtain the l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) désignation in 1971, followed in 1996 by the l’Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) label. To cap that, in 2017 the growing of these grapes in and around Moissac was included in the ‘patrimoine immatériel de la France’, acknowledging that it forms part of the cultural heritage of the town. So these grapes are a big deal here and there are festivals to celebrate them. When available, they are eaten as a table grape, used to make grape juice and also used in cooking in dishes such as grape tarts or in sauces to go with foie gras. Unfortunately the grapes won’t be available to buy and try until after the September harvest but, in the interests of research, we were able to buy some sparkling Chasselas grape juice in the market and can confirm that it is very refreshing and non-alcoholic.

Market days in the town are Saturday and Sunday morning and it’s a large market held mainly in the open air and with some permanent stalls in the covered market. In the late 1950s/ early 1960s, workers from North Africa, known for their skills and hard work, were encouraged to come to the Tarn et Garonne region to work in agricultural activity. The town has a large Moroccan ethnic origin population – approximately 20% – and the market reflects this in some of the clothing, household and food stalls.

Moissac also has some attractive Art Deco architecture. In 1930, major flooding from the Tarn river destroyed parts of the town and resulted in approximately 120 deaths. The town administration, wanting to demonstrate hope and prosperity, embarked on a programme of rebuilding led by architects from Toulouse in the architectural style of the era – Art Deco. The main evidence of this rebuilding is seen along the river bank and esplanade. The original Moulin de Moissac has gone through various incarnations since it’s 16th century origins as a mill and was restored in the Art Deco style as a hotel. On a sunny day it wouldn’t look out of place on the Riviera.

The most intriguing and decorative building, also on the esplanade, is the Uvarium, an octagonal pavilion type building now operating as a restaurant. The building was originally used to provide a ‘cure uvale’ , a grape based therapy that was in vogue in the 1930s and was based on a detox of Chasselas grape juice. Sounds a bit like the therapy we have been practising based on other grape products! The restaurant staff were setting up for lunch time service but kindly let me in to take photos of the beautifully painted ceiling.

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Other notable Art Deco buildings include the rowing club clubhouse on the bank opposite the campsite and the brick covered market, as well as individual houses dotted around the town. It makes for a very enjoyable cycling circuit around the town.

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From Romanesque architecture to Art Deco, it’s certainly a town of contrasts.